There are a number of differences between an "American" board and a traditional  "Englih" Board in useing board made of basswood grain. High-quality boards have rotatable centers that can be turned so the board will wear more evenly.

Embedded in the board are thin steel wires that separate the board into scoring sections, as opposed to the wider steel dividers placed onto the surface of traditional boards. On those English boards, the wider steel makes it much more likely that the dart will hit the steel divider and bounce off onto the floor. Since the dividers on an American board are  thinner (usually around 1/100 of inch), and they are completely pressed into the surface, it is extremely unlikely that the dart will bounce off from hitting the steel.

The scoring areas on an American Darts are also laid out differently from an English board. The center bull eye (or cork) on an American board is one section; there is no "inner" and "outer" bulls ye. Additionally, unlike the English board, the triple ring is not halfway between the outer edge and the bulls , rather triple is itself on the outer edge, and the double ring is directly adjacent to it, just inside the triple ring. The remainder of the board is the single scoring area. The bulls ye is colored red, the single area is uncolored, the double ring is red, and the outermost triple ring is uncolored. The entire scoring area is bounded by a large out-of-bounds blue ring.

The number sequence (20, 1, 18, 4, etc.) is the same as on an English dart board.

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Electron-microscopical images of tungsten oxides and tungsten metal, formed during hydrogen reduction of WO3. The reason for the significant change in form of the powder particles is a result of a chemical vapour transport (CVT) of tungsten via the volatile tungsten hydroxide WO2(OH)2; by courtesy of Prof. Roland Haubner; Vienna University of Technology.

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1. When trying to buy darts, usually you should chose flights and shafts and buy a normal setup. If this is your first set, then you can use the middle length shafts and standard flights

2. Never buy a dart only because it looks so good. Never buy a dart you haven't tried before. This is the strongest point for you buying darts by mail order. Of course, if you desperately want this one for suit your teammate, then you had buy numerous of 180s

3. Checked if the barrels of your chosen setting have the same weight! This is very important! A good shop must be equipped with scales. Darts should be within 2/10 of a gram. E.g. a set with 22.1 gr, 22,2 gr and 22.3 gr is acceptable for a "22gram" set. A set with 21.8, 22.0 and 22.2 is not. You should do this for every setting that you buy, no matter how expensive it is. Some of the well-known companies give you a guarantee that the darts are within a certain weight range (Unicorn for instance guarantees within a third of a percent), but this doesn't mean the setting actually suitable range. The guarantee only says that the darts are replaced when you discover a weight range outside the guarantee.

4.Money should not be an argument. Buy what suits you, not what's expensive. Expensive doesn't necessarily mean better (only exception is movable tip darts for steel tip). If you like that $10 set buy it. If it's the $100 set that feels best, then get it if your wallet allows.

5.When looking for your first bristle board. Manufacturer doesn't really matter for you in the first board. "Bristle Board" is the key phrase. Your first bristle board will guide you at least through the first year of dart practicing. Whether you combine it with a fine dart cabinet or place it on the kitchen door is up to you, but you should look for a chalk board of any kind. As long as it's a bristle board, there is no problem getting one via mail order.

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There are some barrel shapes we can chose in the market of dart.

The barrel forms is the main part of a dart. When we are speaking of "buying a (new) dart" we mean getting a new dart barrel. Nowadays barrels are available in almost every possible shape, with a wide selection of knurl or rings on the surface for a comfortable and safe grip.

It's not possible to say which one is the "right" one. Based on a very theoretical reasoning the long cylindrical barrel could be the best of them because it is the slimmest and allows the tightest grouping. But this reasoning doesn't help you when you are not able to handle such a barrel. Selecting the right shape is a matter of personal preference. Choose what feels comfortable for you. This is much more important than an abstract or "academic" reasoning about theoretical advantages or disadvantages of some shapes.

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