The dartboard itself should be set up with the bulls eye 5 feet 8 inches from the floor. It is a good idea to place some type of board behind and around the dart board. A dartboard surround does this job a treat.

Rememeber the section marked 20 is always centered at the top. The toe line (oche) should be 7 feet 9 1/4 inches from the front of the dartboard. If you are using a raised oche it should be 1 1/2 inches in height and two feet long.

Accurately tossing darts at a dartboard is often challenging, but correctly setting up a regulation space for the board is often just as difficult. If you want to host a darts tournament or attract serious players, you will need to be certain that your dartboard is set up according to professional standards. A dartboard needs to be hung with the bull’s-eye at 5 feet, 8 inches, but the distance from the board to the toe line is also incredibly important in competitive play.

1.Measure the dartboard to ensure it is the correct height. If it is hung incorrectly, you cannot find the toe line with a diagonal measurement.

2.Have a friend secure one end of the tape measure to the bull’s-eye on the board.

3.Stretch the tape measure out and walk away from the dartboard.

inches (172.72 cm) from the floor, eye-level for a 6-foot (180 cm) person. The oche /—the line behind which the throwing player must stand—is generally 7 feet 9  inches (236.86 cm) from the face of the dartboard measured horizontally. Another recognised way of dartboard / oche dimensions is as thus... set up the dartboard on a solid wall so that the distance from the floor to the centre of the bullseye (in the centre of the dartboard) is 68 inches (172.72 cm), then measuring again from the centre of the bullseye in a diagonal manner, measure 115.41 inches (293.14 cm) from the bullseye to the rear of the oche and this will ensure true and accurate allround dimensions, provided the floor is horizontal and the walls are plumb.

An alternate means of measuring the distance from the bullseye to the far side of the oche or throwing line. It is 93.249 inches (236.85 cm) from the rear of the oche to a plumb line hanging (right angle) from the bulls eye. This figure is calculated using Pythagorean theorem, a² + b² = c². This is the recognized world standard as set by the World Darts Federation and is used in most areas.

If you've never had your own dart board, you probably have no idea of how to hang it. You don't want to get it wrong, or you'll risk being the mockery of all your buddies. Hanging a dart board is quite simple once you review the regulations. The World Darts Federation is a large regulatory body of tournament play with affiliate organizations throughout the world. Their rules serve as the default for tournaments, bars and homes alike.

Height
Hang the dart board at 5 feet 8 inches. This measurement is from the ground to the center of the board, not the top.

Significance
If you think 5 feet 8 inches seems like an arbitrary number, it's not. The easy explanation for this height is that it's approximately eye level for someone who is 6 feet tall. Therefore, your eyes would be aligned with the center of the board.

The Halex Dart Board is an electronic dart board that makes it easy for players to keep track of scoring. A computer in the board registers the scores and calculates them so players don't have to do the math. These dart boards are designed for soft tip darts only---metal-tip darts will damage them.
Mounting
A Halex dart board should be mounted on a wall that has about 10 feet of space in front of it and an electrical outlet within easy reach. It should be mounted on screws that are anchored in studs---or anchor bolts, if studs aren't available---79 3/4 inches above the floor. You may need to adjust how far the screws are screwed in to hold the dart board firmly against the wall. Create an official toe line 7 feet, 9 1/4 inches from the wall on which the dart board is mounted.

Operation
After the A/C adapter is plugged into the electrical outlet, press the "Power" button located in the lower-right corner. When the music stops, the dart board will be powered up and ready.

The compression of the sisal fibers in the bristle dart board make it self-healing, which means that when darts are removed from the board the fibers go back into place, leaving the dart board intact. A dart that strikes the board temporarily splits the fibers apart as opposed to pushing them inward or creating holes in the fibers themselves. These qualities also keep the dart in place after impact, ensuring proper scoring and a hassle-free game.

 As everyone knows, under the same weight of darts, most darts rod made from copper are very thick, but those made from tungsten are slender. Since darts can be put closely, the three times area becomes larger, making it so easy to score that it is very beneficial to a competent darts player. Compared with traditional brassinolide darts shaft, tungsten alloy darts shaft still has more outstanding advantages. For example, many more knurling pattern can be carved on the tungsten alloy darts rod, apart from not easy to be distorted, which makes the grip more powerful to reduce the situation of the slip probably existed.

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The fixtures for the remaining five weeks of the McCoy's Premier League Darts have been confirmed.

Following Thursday's Judgement Night in Brighton, Wes Newton and Gary Anderson have been relegated from the event and will play no further part in the tournament.

The remaining eight players will now play each other once more in the remaining five league nights, with six games being played in Dublin, Birmingham and Newcastle and five taking place in Sheffield and Liverpool.

Following Week 14 in Newcastle, the top four players from the league table will progress to compete in the Play-Offs at The O2 in London on Thursday May 16.

The Week Ten fixtures for the coming Thursday in Sheffield include the top-of-the-table clash between James Wade and Michael van Gerwen, with the 2009 champion also playing Adrian Lewis at the Motorpoint Arena and the Dutch ace also meeting Phil Taylor.

Week 11 at The O2 in Dublin includes two big matches for Dutch star Raymond van Barneveld, who takes on van Gerwen and Taylor, with the reigning champion also meeting Andy Hamilton on the night in Ireland.

Week 12 in Birmingham also features six games, with the all-Stoke clash between Taylor and Lewis opening the night before they return later on to play Whitlock and Thornton respectively.

The penultimate week of league action, in Liverpool on May 2, will see Hamilton meet van Gerwen and Wade, while the left-hander also meets Simon Whitlock, van Barneveld plays Lewis and Taylor meets Thornton in a repeat of their clash last Thursday, which the Scot won.

Newcastle's Metro Radio Arena will host the decisive league night on May 9, with the six games including Whitlock meeting van Barneveld and Lewis, Thornton playing van Gerwen and van Barneveld and Lewis also meeting Stoke rival Andy Hamilton, while Taylor plays Wade.

McCoy's Premier League Darts
Week Ten
April 11 - Motorpoint Arena, Sheffield
Robert Thornton v Simon Whitlock
Adrian Lewis v James Wade
Michael van Gerwen v Phil Taylor
Andy Hamilton v Raymond van Barneveld
James Wade v Michael van Gerwen

Week 11
April 18 - The O2, Dublin
Andy Hamilton v Phil Taylor
Raymond van Barneveld v Michael van Gerwen
Robert Thornton v James Wade
Simon Whitlock v Andy Hamilton
Raymond van Barneveld v Phil Taylor
Michael van Gerwen v Adrian Lewis

Week 12
April 25 - The NIA, Birmingham
Phil Taylor v Adrian Lewis
Simon Whitlock v Michael van Gerwen
Robert Thornton v Andy Hamilton
Raymond van Barneveld v James Wade
Phil Taylor v Simon Whitlock
Adrian Lewis v Robert Thornton

Week 13
May 2 - Echo Arena, Liverpool
Michael van Gerwen v Andy Hamilton
James Wade v Simon Whitlock
Robert Thornton v Phil Taylor
Raymond van Barneveld v Adrian Lewis
James Wade v Andy Hamilton

Week 14
May 9 - Metro Radio Arena, Newcastle
Simon Whitlock v Raymond van Barneveld
Michael van Gerwen v Robert Thornton
Andy Hamilton v Adrian Lewis
Phil Taylor v James Wade
Robert Thornton v Raymond van Barneveld
Adrian Lewis v Simon Whitlock

Play-Offs
May 16 - The O2, London
Semi-Finals
PDC Unicorn World Youth Championship Final - Ricky Evans v Michael Smith
Final

Dart weight is a never ending story. A lot of people want to know which weight they should throw, which weight is the most common one, what's the average weight and so on. There is no right answer to these questions. For the "average weight" question there probably is an answer, but it doesn't make much sense.

An example of two world champions:
Dennis Priestley throws 14 gram darts.
Raymond van Barneveld throws 26 gram darts.

If you ask the average question now the answer will be 20 grams, but does this make sense when the weights vary that much?

For a beginner steel dart player I recommend a barrel weight between 22 and 25 grams, which is slightly on the heavy side. The reason is that you need to develop a basic throwing skill in order to reach a certain initial level of play with darts on the heavy side. You would probably reach such a level a bit faster with lighter darts, but lighter darts don't force you to develop a somehow decent technique which will make later improvement a lot harder. Heavier darts also forgive slight technical inconsistencies (in other words: errors) better than lighter darts -- I like to tell heavier darts more "good-natured" because of this. The lighter the dart the more sensible it reacts to what you are doing -- slight intentional adjustments as well as slight technical errors or deficits.

Once you have got some darting experience and a decent technique you may find the heavier dart not that convincing any longer because of its good-natured behavior. If you then think you could use a dart that reacts more sensible you should consider going lighter.

Soft tip players won't have that much of a choice for their dart's weight. The limit set by the machine operators and leagues usually is below 20 grams. If you are a beginner in soft tip the only advice I can give you concerning the weight of your darts is start at the maximum allowed weight.　

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The barrel forms the main part of a dart. When we are speaking of "buying a (new) dart" we mean getting a new dart barrel. Nowadays barrels are available in almost every possible shape, with a wide selection of knurl or rings on the surface for a comfortable and safe grip.

The main barrel shapes are:

- cylinder
- ton
- torpedo

Some barrel shapes. The selection to the left shows barrels with 2 threads (soft tip), to the right are fixed-tip steel dart barrels.

It's not possible to say which one is the "right" one. Based on a very theoretical reasoning the long cylindrical barrel could be the best of them because it is the slimmest and allows the tightest grouping. Good for 140s and 180s. But this reasoning doesn't help you when you are not able to handle such a barrel. Selecting the right shape is a matter of personal preference. Choose what feels comfortable for you. This is much more important than an abstract or "academic" reasoning about theoretical advantages or disadvantages of some shapes.

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Today's standard material is Nickel-Tungsten. Tungsten is a very dense material, so darts with a considerable weight can be made quite slim. The invention of tungsten darts had a big impact on the sport. With the new darts it was possible to achieve much better grouping than before, and the averages in pro games have improved dramatically. It is not an overstatement when this development is referred to as "the tungsten revolution".

Before the tungsten revolution darts were mainly made of brass. Brass darts are still used by some players because they are much cheaper than Tungsten. But brass darts are ancient technology now, so I can't recommend them.

Because of technical difficulties with manufacturing a 100% tungsten dart is not available. All "tungsten" darts youcan buy are in fact made of tungsten alloys, with Nickel-Tungsten being the most common one. When you buy a dart the amount of tungsten in the alloy is given by a percentage number. So a common "80% Tungsten" dart has 80 percent tungsten and 20 percent Nickel, Copper and/or Ferro. Tungsten darts are available from 80% to over 90%. The more tungsten the slimmer - and the more expensive - the dart is. If the high-percentage tungsten darts are worth the higher price is an open question. Personally I think that 80% tungsten are good enough for almost everyone.

Remember: the only benefit from a high tungsten share is that the dart can be made slimmer than a dart with the same weight and a lower tungsten share. In no way do higher tungsten percentages indicate some sort of overall better quality or better machining.

Inrecent years a growing number of people has become allergic to Nickel. With Nickel-Tungsten darts being the standard equipment nowadays these people will have problems with their darts. There are a few darts available with different tungsten alloys, such as silver tungsten or copper tungsten. However, these darts are very rare. The major dart manufacturers don't supply them. If you are allergic to Nickel you will probably have to look for these alternatives.

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The surface of the barrel is covered by knurling or rings for a safe grip on the dart. Again there is a vast selection of different surface shapes, and combinations of them. And there is the possibility of a plain surface (which beginners are usually unhappy with). Again, it can't be said which variations are the best ones. Choose what suits you, what feels good and what you think you can handle.

There is only one thing you should avoid: painted surfaces. Paint might look good, but usually it makes the dart only more slippery. The probably only exception here is Unicorn's "gold" brand. These darts are covered with a golden coat (I don't know what material this coating is. But it's not gold) which they say improves the grip. I have not experienced any differences with these darts, but some people seem to like them. Try and find out for yourself.  
 

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Tungsten barrels threads of all usual tungsten darts are called "2BA" which follows a British norm. Older brass darts often have a 1/4 inch thread. These two threads are not compatible, 1/4 inch threads are as ancient as brass darts, so usually, there is no need to worry about that when buying a tungsten dart. Standard shafts or soft/movable tips you buy are equipped with the 2BA thread, so problems with incompatibility of the threads should not occur.

However, there are some pitfalls. Some dart manufacturers supply darts with "alternative" attachment methods. The shaft of this kind of dart isn't attached with a thread, it is attached through just a thin whole and a rubber tube to fix it. This system is unique -- as good or as bad as the thread system, but you have to take into account that for shafts for this system you will have to rely on the manufacturer. For other companies supplying a shaft only for such special series is not economical.
 

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Soft dart tips don't really need "maintenance". Once soft dart tips are bended or broken just replace them.

Soft Dart Tips

If you are using "classic" steel dart then you don't have a choice for tips. The steel tip come with fixed tips that can't be replaced, or can only be replaced with workshop tools. However, there are steel tip with movable tips available. These steel dart tips are made for avoiding bounce-outs. These systems are quite good at that and usually reduce bounce-outs by 80 per cent or more.

Steel Dart Tips

Replaceable tip systems can be used on special steel dart tips from the movable tips manufacturer, or on normal and usually a lot cheaper soft dart tips (for possible compatibility problems see the barrels section).

Movable tip systems can be quite expensive. If you are a soft tipper and want to play or practice on a steel tip board on occasion and don't want to invest in movable tips then you can get cheaper "standard" replacement tips.

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Steel-tip for tungsten darts, you have two options, fixed-point or moveable-point.

Fixed-point Steel Tip Tungsten Darts
The point is solidly fixed into the dart, it does not move. This is the most common type of dart you will see.

Moveable-point Steel Tip Tungsten Darts
Guess what, these point's move! There are a number of different varieties on the market, but the theme behind them all is the same, "Help decrease the chance for a bounce-out". When you throw the dart, you want the point to be fully extended. The hope is that if you hit a wire, the back-end (or barrel) will then move forward and force the point into the boards as opposed to letting the dart bounce off the wire and fall to the floor. If you are always throwing on real hard boards, or older type boards that don't have all the nice features, moveable points may be for you.

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Tungsten heavy alloy billets are the rods used to make dart barrels. Tungsten has a specific gravity of 19.3(20 ℃ ), so it is a very dense material. For its special properties, nowadays tungsten is widely applied to make darts replacing brass. Because of technical difficulties with manufacturing, a 100% tungsten dart is not available. All "tungsten" darts you can buy are in fact made of tungsten heavy alloy.

Tungsten Heavy Alloy Billets

We could supply tungsten heavy alloy billets by various sizes and contents, popularly 70~90% tungsten is used for making both soft-tip and steel tip barrels, ranging from 14~18 gram and 18~40 gram respectively, and sometimes, 65% and 95~97% tungsten are offered following customers’ specific request.

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Tungsten alloy darts are made of tungsten heavy alloy, 80~95%W with binders (Ni, Cu, Fe) of various composition.

Because of technical difficulties with manufacturing, a 100% tungsten dart is not available. All "tungsten" darts you can buy are in fact made of tungsten alloys, with tungsten alloy darts being the most common one. When you buy a dart, the amount of tungsten in the alloy is given by a percentage number. So a common "80% Tungsten" dart has 80 percent tungsten and 20 percent Nickel, Copper and/or Ferro. Tungsten darts are available from 80% to over 90%. The more tungsten the slimmer - and the more expensive - the dart is. If the high-percentage tungsten alloy darts are worth the higher price is an open question. Personally I think that 80% tungsten are good enough for almost everyone.

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Why buy tungsten darts? Tungsten is a very dense metal, also very durable. Using tungsten to make a dart barrel results in a smaller dart for the same weight. For anyone who plays darts often, the durability is important, as that helps retain the dart's precision-machined shape, grooves, and knurling.

As with most products, tungsten darts are not all the same. Raw tungsten does not melt easily, and is not readily made into machinable shapes. Tungsten is generally ground into a fine powder, which is then blended with a variety of other metals that act as binding agents. In the case of darts, the most common blends contain nickel, with smaller amounts of copper and ferrous compounds. The mixture is heated and compressed to make a solid billet or bar, which can then be machined into darts barrels.

Very high percentages of tungsten, such as 98% tungsten darts, have a wonderful dense feel and a surface that resists wear for a long time. However, the high concentration of tungsten powder also makes them brittle, and more prone to break if dropped on hard surface such as a concrete garage floor.

Different blends may also slightly change the appearance of the finished darts. Some darts look shinier, others have a more grainy appearance. Surface treatments during the manufacturing process can also make a great difference in the appearance of a new set of darts. A wide variey of coatings are often applied to darts barrels, ranging from simple paint or powder-coating to high-tech vapor-deposit coatings such as Titanium Nitride.

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Tungsten dart sharpeners are very important in the game of darts. Without sharpening the tips of darts, they get dull and don't stick in the board. When darts don't stick in the board, the thrower gets no points awarded.

No matter how perfect a player's aim is, in the end it won't matter if their darts don't stay in the board. Here's how to use dart sharpeners to make sure that the darts stay stuck in the dart board.

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1.Rub the end of the dart on the stone. Hold the dart parallel to the sharpening stone and lightly rub the dart’s end across the stone’s surface. Make sure to rotate the dart to properly sharpen all sides. Check the tip continuously to ensure that it is sharpening properly and adjust sharpening accordingly.

2.Check the shape of the dart tip. Perfectly sharpened dart tips are not pointed; they have a slightly rounded tip. The tip needs to resemble a ball point pen tip to properly stick in the dart board. If the tip gets a point on it, lightly rub the end on the sharpening stone in circles until it is rounded.

3.Don't overdo it. Dart sharpeners to a point are too sharp. These darts often don't stick to the dart board, instead bouncing off and falling to the floor. They also run the risk of damaging the wiring on the board due to their sharpness. New darts in packaging come too sharp to play with. Round the tips of the darts down with the dart sharpener before using them so that they’re not too sharp.

4.Use it frequently. Check the tips of darts before throwing them. It’s probably not necessary to sharpen the tips between every throw, but it does occasionally happen that the tip needs a touch-up. Definitely sharpen darts between games to keep them in top shape.

5.Watch for signs of a bad tip. A bad tip is a tip that is too sharp or completely unsharpened. When playing, the biggest sign of a tip that needs sharpening is the dart bouncing off the board. Sharp, pointed tips slide in without sticking, and bounce off the backing, and flat darts make a big hole that they slip right back out of. This happens both when the tip is too sharp, and when it's not sharpened, or flat.

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