There are places on RVs which cannot easily be riveted by one person. Main wing skins are a good example. This becomes a two-person operation, with one bucking and one riveting. The principles of good riveting are exactly the same, the only variable introduced is the co-ordination of two workers (and the advantage of two extra hands). As the partners cannot see what the other is doing, a system of verbal signals is used to direct operations. One which works is:

1.The riveter inserts a rivet into the prepared hole; positions the gun for setting and calls, "ready".

2.The bucker positions the bucking bar over the rivet tail and, if its position is correct, will call, "go". If the rivet is in an awkward position the bucker may want to slide the rivet out and in to determine its point of balance (as above).  He/she will call, "out" while pushing the rivet out toward the riveter until the bar comes to rest on the aluminium. To reposition the rivet for setting the bucker will call, "in".

3.The riveter will firmly push the gun against the work and may also use the other hand to press the set against the work, if it is of the flush swivel type (see below). As the rivet re-seats this force pushes the bucking bar back into position.  If the  bucker is satisfied with the orientation of the bucking bar the call "go" is given.

4.The riveter then drives the rivet for a time determined by experience or a test piece. This interval is usually less than a second and is best remembered as a musical phrase, such as a drum roll.

5.The bucker will check the tail for quality and will call "next" if all is well and the pair can move on the the next rivet or "again" if the rivet needs a bit more driving or "remove" if the rivet is not acceptable. The riveter marks the rivet for later removal with a felt pen.




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Type II



Type III






If the builder is working alone, sometimes it is difficult to judge when the backriveting  set/gun is square to the surface being joined.


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1.Using shims, level the back riveting plate on the table.

2.Using a drill press, drill a half inch hole almost through a 4" x 4" x 2" piece of hardwood.

3.Mount a straight universal head rivet set in riveting gun.

4.Use Vaseline to push the end of the set into the hole in the hardwood.

5.Place the hardwood on the levelled surface plate so that the gun is supported vertically.

6.Secure a round bubble level vial to the butt of the rivet gun with RTV or a silicone adhesive.

7.Make sure the vial is positioned so that the bubble is in the centre.

8.Secure the assembly so that it cures in that position overnight.

This will aid in setting perfectly aligned rivets provided

a.The back riveting plate is levelled prior to use;

b.The gun is held with the bubble in the centre while riveting.

Note: It pays to periodically recheck calibration using the wood block and straight rivet set. The straight set is only used during calibration.  The back riveting set is reinstalled for actual riveting.




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Back riveting is a method of setting rivets, usually in a skin component, by striking the buck tails with a special gun set while the flush head is securely supported in its dimple or counter sink by a steel plate or bucking bar.

Control surfaces are usually back riveted using a horizontal steel plate mounted on a table.  The skin rivets are held vertically in their holes with thin Scotch Magic tape or fine Mylar tapes over the heads.  The internal rib or stiffener is placed over the rivets and the special gun set is used to sequentially set these fasteners.  Note:  try using all RV-Workshop Learning centre back riveting sets.

Type I







Tungsten Alloy Manufacturer & Supplier: Chinatungsten Online - http://www.tungsten-alloy.com
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Email: sales@chinatungsten.com
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