Tungsten has gained a lot of popularity recently. Tungsten uses about 50% less material than lead for the same amount of weight. This means a 1-ounce tungsten sinker has a smaller volume, letting it penetrate weeds easier. Also, tungsten is more dense than lead. This makes your fishing more sensitive. It transmits vibrations differently depending on if you're fishing in mud, rock or wood.

1. Small volume

High density make tungsten alloy fishing sinkers/weights smaller than the conventional lead fishing weights. It will be hung up far less with a tungsten sinker than with a lead sinker because of its smaller size.

2. Hard

It's harder than lead fishing weight. It will not be stuck in the jowl of the fish. So the shape will be maintained longer.

3. Strong wind resistance

As the high density of tungsten, the tungsten alloy fishing sinker makes your fishing easier. It is extremely sensitive and can actually help you “feel” what the bottom is made of and what your bait is bumping into, such as brush, rocks, mud, etc.

Tungsten fishing weights/eyes are an ideal, environment-friendly alternative to lead weights, which are toxic and increasingly being labeled an environmental hazard.


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1. Rest Rivet bar on inserted rivet and try to locate its point of balance.

2.With gun set in place, use rivet bar to push rivet (and gun assembly) outward. Rivet bar will then register at right angles to the rivet as it comes to rest on the aluminium.

3.Push rivet back into place with gun set and reposition rivet bar, if necessary, to maintain its point of balance on the rivet. (repeat steps 2 and 3 until point of balance is determined). Often the index finger can be placed on the back of the rivet bar directly opposite the rivet tail. It then becomes the 'sensor' for correct bar position.

4.Pressure is held on gun while riveting. Rivet bar is held with only moderate force (otherwise rivet may be set with head proud of surface). A rubber grommet may be used over the rivet tail to assist in squeezing parts together during riveting. It acts as a 'pressure plate'.

5.Duration of riveting is determined by experimentation with a test piece or previous experience.


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Rivets are used in a variety of home repair, hobby, and craft applications to fasten thin materials together permanently. A rivet forms a connection when the shaft end of the rivet is deformed to hold it in place. Some rivets can be set by hand, while others require a rivet gun. While setting rivets by hand is a fairly easy operation, it's necessary to gather the right tools and safety equipment to do the job right.

1.Prepare the materials to be fastened by drilling a hole through all layers using the drill and drill bit or by using a punch, depending on the material. Steel or aluminum will require a drill bit, while fabrics and leathers will require a punch. Choose a drill bit or punch size that is the same diameter as the rivet shaft. Choose a rivet depth that matches the total thickness of the materials to be fastened. If the rivet is too long, it will not compress enough and the materials will be free to move. If the rivet is too short, it will not grasp the materials enough and it could pull out of the assembly.

2. Insert the rivet through the drilled or punched holes so that the shaft passes through all of the layers.

3. Place the assembly down on the rivet setting pad, with the end of the shaft oriented upwards. The tip of the rivet should be centered on the cone of the setting pad, so that the sides of the shaft can flare out when the rivet is struck.

4. While wearing safety glasses, hit the head of the rivet squarely with the hammer.

5. Turn the assembly over and examine the end of the rivet. The edges should have flared out away from the center, and the material should be fully compressed between the end of the rivet and the head. Repeat Step 4 if the rivet is not fully compressed.


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 A rivet is a permanent mechanical fastener. Before it is installed it consists of a smooth cylindrical shaft with a head on one end. The end opposite the head is called the buck-tail. On installation the rivet is placed in a pre-drilled hole. Then the tail is "upset" (i.e. deformed) so that it expands to about 1.5 times the original shaft diameter and holds the rivet in place. To distinguish between the two ends of the rivet, the original head is called the factory head and the deformed end is called the shop head or buck-tail.

Because there is effectively a head on each end of an installed rivet it can support tension loads (loads parallel to the axis of the shaft); however, it is much more capable of supporting shear loads (loads perpendicular to the axis of the shaft). Bolts and screws are better suited for tension applications.

Fastenings used in traditional wooden boat building like copper nails and clinch bolts work on the principle of the rivet, but they were in use long before the term rivet was invented, and where they are remembered, are usually classified among the nails and bolts respectively.


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