A felt dartboard is ideal for beginners to explore the classic parlor and pub game. Hook-and-loop fastener balls will stick to the felt surface, allowing players to practice their aim risk-free. As an added bonus, this craft project is easily completed, as it requires very little time and only a few inexpensive materials. Boost the educational value of the game with your board's assigned point values, which can be tailored to teach numerical patterns and simple math equations involving addition or multiplication.

1.Place a large, round object, such as a baking pan or mixing bowl, onto a piece of cardboard. Trace the outline with a felt-tip marker and cut the shape out with a pair of scissors.

2.Use the same round object to trace an equal-size piece of felt in a color of your choice. Cut the shape out with your scissors and glue it onto the cardboard with craft glue.

3.Cut a small circle from your felt to place in the center of the board; this will represent the bull's-eye. Draw in a series of rings that increase in size to surround the bull's-eye on the felt-covered board, or glue felt rings to the board if desired.

4.Assign point values to the bull's-eye and rings. Write these numerical values in with your felt-tip marker, or cut them out of the remaining felt and glue them to the board.

5.Wrap several ping-pong balls with self-adhesive hook-and-loop Velcro fasteners; these will be the darts that will stick to the felt backing of the board.

6.Mount the board on a wall, or use self-adhesive magnetic backing to hang it from your refrigerator.

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For a simple and pleasurable a pastime of throwing darts at a local pub, you might be surprised to realize how expensive some dart boards are. Luckily, constructing your own is hardly an overwhelming task, and can be accomplished with little more than a ruler, some cork, and a bowl of pretzels.

1.Secure a large piece of cork, about 1-1 1/2 inches thick. This is thick enough to hold the darts and protect your wall, but thin enough to be penetrated. It should also measure at least 18 inches wide and long.

2.Trace on your cork a perfect circle, eighteen inches in diameter. Cut out the circle, which is the size of a regulation dartboard. The excess can be used as a backboard to protect your wall.

3.Measure your inner bull's-eye, which is a small circle, half an inch in diameter, in the center of the board. Encircle this circle with an outer bull's-eye, which is 1 1/4 inches in diameter. Color your inner bull's-eye's black, and your outer bull's-eye red.

4.Mark out two larger circles, one 7 7/8 inches in diameter, the other 8 1/2 inches in diameter. The 5/16 of an inch band between these two circles is the triple score ring. Measure two more circles, 13 1/2 inches and 12 7/8 inches in diameter--this band is the double-score ring.

5.The layout of your dartboard complete, divide the board into twenty equal sections like you would cut up a pie. Do not divide the bull's-eye. Assign each section of the pie, including the bull's-eye, a point value - you can either copy a regulation board, or make up your own.

6.To divide the sections of the board from each other, either outline the dividing lines with spider wire (available at dart supply shops), color alternating sections different colors, or both.

7.Hang your dartboard on the wall, so that the center is five feet, eight inches from the ground. Mark a line seven feet, nine inches from the wall: this is where players will stand.

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Scoring darts is a relatively straightforward but important task. At best, it is frustrating to the players when you, as a scorer, cannot keep up with their scoring and provide useful and current information. In particular, players need to know how much they have left to score so they can work out their strategy for checking out, which is only achieved when the last dart hits a double. In most formats of the game, if a player exceeds his total, he busts his score (the score of his three darts do not register). So, if a player is on 101, and hits triple 19 (57) and then 20, you must inform him he requires a double 12 (as he has 24 left to score).

1.Program your electronic scoreboard to the format of darts game you wish to play. For example, some matches are played between two opponents from 301 down to a finish, while some team games are competed from up to 1001 down.

2.Add a score after each person has thrown each dart. For example, add 20, 20 and 18 (making 58) if a player throws these scores.

3.Enter the total of the three darts into the scoreboard and allow it to calculate the score. For example, if a player is throwing his first three darts and is scoring from 301 and hits triple 17, 19, 19, then he has scored 89. Enter 89 on the keypad of the scoreboard and it will perform the calculation (301-89=212).

4.Inform players when they are three darts from a finish -- hence run the risk of busting their score -- using a checkout chart, which contains the conventional combination of scores for a player to register a checkout. For example, the highest checkout that can be achieved is 170, which can only be done by hitting triple 20, triple 20, bull's-eye.

5.Work out a player's three-dart average, which is the average amount he scored per three darts thrown. Press the average button on the scoreboard's keypad, which will display a two- or three-digit number, often providing one or two numbers after the decimal place. The highest three-dart average in a Professional Darts Corporation World Darts Championship final was achieved by Phil 'The Power' Taylor in 2009 (110.94).

6.Watch each player throw all three darts before calculating the total scored. Do not try to subtract each dart from the score as it occurs, as this is slower.

7.Subtract a player's three-dart score from his overall total. For example, if a player throws his first three darts scoring from 501 and hits triple 20, triple 20, single 20, then he scored 140, which reduces his total to 361.

8.Inform players when they reach a score that leaves them within three darts of a checkout. For example, if a player reaches any number lower than 171, he is almost certainly on a checkout (169, 168, 166, 165, 163, 162 and 159 cannot be checked out in three darts). Always have a checkout table on hand. Consider pinning it up next to your dartboard to make things quick and simple.

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Along with dozens of storyline missions, "Grand Theft Auto IV" challenges players to obtain a large list of achievements. These achievements range from simple to nearly impossible and are rated according to difficulty on a scale of bronze to gold. You can quickly and easily obtain the bronze-level achievements in the game. You should be able to shoot your way to 180 points during any dart game with a small amount of coordination and good timing.

1.Press "start" to open your map and locate the bar on Morris Street in Dukes. The map indicates this bar with a bull's-eye icon. Travel to the bar by foot, car or taxi.

2.Enter the bar's outdoor seating area through the archway connected to the street. Walk forward into the bar, then make an immediate right once inside.

3.Approach the dart board and press the left trigger on your controller to initiate the game.

4.Aim carefully using the left analog stick. Line up your crosshairs with the smallest innermost rectangle in the "20" point section. This particular strip triples the score, resulting in 60 points per throw.

5.Hit the "A" button to shoot your dart. Repeat this process three times to achieve a score of "180."

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The dartboard itself should be set up with the bulls eye 5 feet 8 inches from the floor. It is a good idea to place some type of board behind and around the dart board. A dartboard surround does this job a treat.

Rememeber the section marked 20 is always centered at the top. The toe line (oche) should be 7 feet 9 1/4 inches from the front of the dartboard. If you are using a raised oche it should be 1 1/2 inches in height and two feet long.

In either 501 or cricket, a good rule of thumb for picking which triple to shoot at, is to assume the dart is going to hit a single. Which ever single will do you the most good,that's the triple. Remember even good "A" players only hit triples 15%-20% of the time, which means that on any one dart there is a 80%- 85% chance that at best you will hit asingle!

Now for a detailed look at 501. There are basically three sections of numbers for all the outs. These are determined by how many triples it takes to hit the out . The first group is 170-131 all these outs require two triples to get to a double. The second group is 130- 91, all these outs require you to hit at least one of your first two darts in a triple. And from 90 down you can get to an out without having to hit a triple. {Exception: You can get to an out from 132 and 135 with only one triple if the first dart is a single or double bull, and you can get to an out from 91-95 without a triple if the first dart is a single or double bull. } The highest number in each of these groups are target numbers (170,130, and 90). Once you get into the 200’s you should know, before you go to the line how many points are needed to get to 170. If you'r on 229 you should be aware that 60 points will not put you on an out, and if your first two darts only hit single 20's then throw the third dart at the triple 19. Both the triple 20 and triple 19 will bring you to a respectable three dart out, but only the single 19 will also leave you on a three dart out. Notice how the single points the way to the correct triple. It is also important to commit to memory the numbers under 170 that can’t be taken out even with three darts (159, 162, 163, 165, 166, 168, and 169).Make sure that when you’re coming down from the 200’s you do not leave yourself on any of these numbers. If it's easier for you to remember the numbers you can take out they are (170, 167, 164, 161, 160, and 158-down) Notice the pattern of them being separated by three.

You should always try to get as many points as you can until your at an out, but as your coming down, try to make sure you at least get to the next target area. It will save you darts! The next target area starts with 130 and goes to 91.There are a few numbers to avoid in this group 129,128,and 125. I will explain this further later, but these are very ugly outs. This is a good time to discuss the two dart outs, commit these to memory 100, 101, 104, 107 and 110. If you are any where in the 120’s, throw your first dart at the triple where the single will leave you on one of these two dart outs. And never leave yourself on 99. Here is an example: (126) Many beginners will shoot triple 20 on the first dart because its even, when they miss and hit a single 20 their on 106 with no way to go out on this turn, three more darts for the other guys. The proper first dart is triple 19, if you hit it your on 69, or if you miss your on 107, both can be taken out with two darts. It is not important to remember all 162 outs, just these target numbers and let the single point the way. And do the math before you get to the line.90 is probably the most important target of all, from here you can get to an out without a triple. I consider myself safe at this point, because I know on my next throw I should be able to have at least one dart to win. An important number in this group is 70, make sure if you are at 90 or less that your first dart brings you to 70 or less, this iscrucial in getting to an out without forcing yourself to hit a triple. Example: (88) Many players like triple 16 double 20, but a single 16 will leave you on 72 forcing you to hit a triple with your second dart , or give the other guy three more darts. The best way is triple 20, double 14. If you miss the triple and catch a single 20, this will bring you to 68, where you can finish by throwing triple 18, double 7. That’s right T18,D7 this is because if you miss the second dart and catch a single 18 you still have a third dart to win at the double bull. This is the way the pro’s use the whole board to squeeze out every possible opportunity. Before I start on individual outs, it is important to look at the area from 61-70 with only two darts in your hand.

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A player is on 92 and is stepping up to the line with three darts in his hand. He knows the out T20, D16. He throws his first dart and hits only a single 20 then he has to stop

and subtract 20 from 92 and then figure out where he should go next. The player knew where to go if he hit the triple but not if he hit a single Here's the trick, do the math

before you go to the line. Doing the math first a player knows if he hits a triple 20 he goes right to the double 16 and if he hits a single 20 then he is going right to the

triple 16 (or what ever triple that he likes for a 72 two dart out, there are several options) and finish with a double 12. An advanced player will also figure out what he is

going to do if he hits a single 16 with that second dart. He would have 56 left and may choose to go back for another single or triple 16. To recap the player says to himself,

"I'm going at the triple 20 with the first dart, if I hit I'm going double 16, if I miss I'm going triple 16, If I hit the second dart I'm going double 12, if I miss I'm going

back at the triple 16." This may seem complicated but it gets easier with practice and you will be surprised how much better you shoot. Notice this strategy doesn’t require you

to memorize every out on the board, only to do the math before you go to the line.

The best way to improve your accuracy is to practice, practice, practice. When you practice have a few routines where you can measure your progress. This will force you to improve and help your concentration. For instance, when I practice I like to start by

throwing 100 darts at the 20's and count how many I get, 3 for the triples 2 for the doubles and 1 for the singles. Every time I do this I am always trying to do 1 better than the time before. A good "A" player should be able to get 100 20’s out of 100 darts. The key is to be able to measure your progress. You may also want to count how many actually hit the triple 20, this will tell you what percentage of your darts are hitting triples, and more importantly what percentage don’t. This percentage will be important later indeciding strategy .

The best way to improve your accuracy is to practice, practice, practice. When you practice have a few routines where you can measure your progress. This will force you to improve and help your concentration. For instance, when I practice I like to start by throwing 100 darts at the 20's and count how many I get, 3 for the triples 2 for the doubles and 1 for the singles. Every time I do this I am always trying to do 1 better thanthe time before. A good "A" player should be able to get 100 20’s out of 100 darts. The key is to be able to measure your progress. You may also want to count how many actually hit the triple 20, this will tell you what percentage of your darts are hitting triples, and more importantly what percentage don’t. This percentage will be important later in deciding strategy.

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There are two aspects in becoming a good dart player, they are accuracy and strategy. Accuracy is your ability to hit a particular target. Strategy is the decision making process that one goes through to decide on what target to shoot at. In any dart game accuracy is about 90% of winning, and 10% strategy. Who ever hits the most triples is usually going to win, however if the other guy is hitting just as many triples as you are, that's where strategy will make all the difference. I have noticed in most dart games a player will experience a brief lull in his accuracy It may be at the beginning, middle or end of the game, but a superior strategy will help carry you through those lulls.

Also having good strategy can improve your accuracy in two ways. First is confidence, I always get a real confidence boost when I'm up against a player that I can see doesn't know his outs or plays catch-up in cricket. I know that if this game comes down to strategy, I got him. Second, is rhythm. I have found that when players are shooting their best, it is when they have established a rhythm in their darts. The most common thing that will disrupt a players rhythm is a lack of strategy, it is very hard to maintain a rhythm when you have to stop and add your score in the middle of your throw. One of the most common excuses in darts is, "I got down to an out, but I couldn't take it out.".

Many times the reason for this is because in the beginning of an '01 game a player is not concerned with the score, he is just trying to bring it down, but when he gets close to an out he has to stop after each dart to figure out what to shoot at next.

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How often, how much? This is one of the standard questions I get from players. The general answer is of course not surprising: As often as possible, as much as possible.

But how many people have 8 hours or more per day they can use for practicing darts? Answer: Maybe the pros and some of the unemployed, but hardly anyone else. So you get your personal answer - use as much time as you can or are willing to afford. If this is 8 hours per day, great. If this is 1 hour, okay.

However long this time is, you should use it right. 1 hour of intense, aware and motivated practice is better than 8 hours of boredom and so-so arrow tossing. And, as in the headline of this paragraph, frequency is more important than quantity. An example: Player A does 7 or more hours of practicing each Sunday and nothing during the rest of the week. Player B practices half an hour on workdays, 2 hours on Saturday and then enjoys a lazy Sunday. Guess who uses his time better... yes, frequency is more important than quantity, so player B's regime is much better.

Try to practice each day of the week, with not more than 1 or two days off. Even if you can only spend 20 minutes on workdays this is good practice, although you should then plan at least one longer practice session on weekends, let's say more than 2 hours if you are serious about improving your game. The frequency postulate can also be used for doing two or more short practice sessions on one day. E.g. play for 15 minutes during lunch hour if you have the chance to, and for another 15 minutes when you come home. German top player Andre Welge used to get up 20 minutes earlier in the morning to get some additional practicing before he went to work. Not anybody's strategy (at least not mine, I REALLY hate getting up early), but a good one.

Then, not only is frequency better than quantity, intensity also is. Do your practice sessions on a concentration level similar to your matchplay level. If you find your concentration or motivation dropping during a longer session, go for a pause. Again 15 minutes up to half an hour are okay for such pausing. You can and should also pause if your motivation drops during a practice session, and also when you are unhappy with your game. Better stop and try again a while later with new motivation and awareness. Unconcentrated and unmotivated practice is bad practice. Pro Rod Harrington told me he doesn't practice when he has no fun doing it. In darts there is no use for forcing oneselve to practicing. If you don't want to, don't do. But of course, if you aren't eaeger to get to the board again after one or two lazy days you will hardly have the personality to become a strong player. In many other sports self-torment (mostly to gain muscle power) is a necessity, but not in darts. Darts is touch and coordination, not physical suffering.

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Here is a checklist of what you should pay attention to when you shop for a set of darts.

The supermarket or IKEA are not proper places for buying darts. Some of these facilities sell darts (steel and soft) now and then, often combined with boards. In 99 percent of all cases this stuff is just plainly useless. If it's soft then the boards tend to have weird dimensions and poor quality (segments will break often with no replacement available). If it is steel then the boards are often paper boards which only last for a couple of darts. The darts supplied with these packages are the cheapest things possible,and in this case cheap doesn't mean low price, it means worthless.

Find a shop that has specialized in darts. If you can't find such a shop then look for a fisherman, hunting or weapon shop. Sometimes these facilities sell dart stuff (at least in Europe), and if they have a board where you can try their darts then you are in business. Pubs and bars where darts is played are also possible places to buy darts.

Take enough time to try different darts. You should spend at least 1 hour for trying different shapes/weights. If the shop doesn't give you this opportunity then it isn't a good shop.

When trying the darts don't judge by what you are hitting with them. Only judge by how the dart is feeling. This is important because when you are trying new darts it is very likely that you are more concentrated and careful than usual. This will result in better hits, but it's not because the dart is so good.

When trying different darts then first try a couple of darts and make a first preselection. For instance, try new sets of darts that look promising. Don't forget to try darts that look very odd for you, or shapes different from the ones you are used to! Prejudice is not the best thing when you are shopping for a new set of darts, you might find the perfect set where you wouldn't have expected it.

One you have filtered out about 4 "candidates" you should go on further examining them, filtering half of them out. Then you have 2 sets left to decide which one to buy (most probably this will be the same dart in two adjacent weights)

.If you can't get sure which set to buy then buy none of them, not both. If you find it unpleasant to tell the shopkeeper that you won't buy anything after he patiently assisted you in your 2-hour session at the shop then buy a couple of shafts or flights you'll need anyway sooner or later. I'm not the one who suggests to fool around in the shop trying all sorts of darts only to buy them later via mail order where they are 5 percent cheaper. I don't think this is fair. In long term this will only kill your round-the-corner dart shop which will hurt you more when you discover that you are out of shafts the day before that deciding league match of the season.

When trying darts bring your usual flights and shafts with you and try with your normal setup. If this is your first set then use middle length shafts and standard flights (this combo is usually the standard supply in the box of each set).

Never buy a dart only because it looks so good. Never buy a dart you haven't tried before. This is the strongest point against buying darts by mail order. Of course, if you desperately want this one set of your teammate you had that numerous 180s with the last night, then mail order is okay. But consider point 2. here.

Once you have chosen a set examine the threads for compatibility to standard shafts and tips.

Check if the barrels of your chosen set have the same weight! This is very important! A good shop must be equipped with scails. Darts should be within 2/10 of a gram. E.g. a set with 22.1 gr, 22,2 gr and 22.3 gr is acceptable for a "22gram" set. A set with 21.8, 22.0 and 22.2 is not. You should do this check for every set you buy, no matter how expensive it is. Some of the well-known companies give you a guarantee that the darts are within a certain weight range (Unicorn for instance guarantees within a third of a,percent), but this doesn't mean the set actually is within that range! The guarantee only says that the darts are replaced when you discover a weight range outside themguarantee.

Money should not be an argument. Buy what suits you, not what's expensive. Expensive doesn't necessarily mean better (only exception is movable tip darts for steel tip). If you like that $10 set buy it. If it's the $100 set that feels best, then get it if your wallet allows.

When looking for your first dart board buy a bristle board. Manufacturer doesn't really matter for your first board. "Bristle Board" is the key phrase. Your first bristle board will guide you at least through the first year of dart practicing. Whether you combine it with a fine dart cabinet or place it on the kitchen door is up to you, but you should look for a chalk board of any kind. As long as it's a bristle board there is no problem getting one via mail order.

At all costs avoid the cheap paper boards that are sold mainly in supermarkets. If you are playing with the recommended 22-25 gram darts on this board it won't survive the first week.

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