The two most popular games played by dart players around the world are"301" and "Cricket". 301 is the most obvious. Each side begins with 301 points and throws their darts in an effort to reduce their score to zero.

Before points may count a player must first hit a double. The score is then quickly reduced toward zero. The real skill comes in at the end of the game when a player must throw a double or bull's eye that reduces the final score exactly to zero. Any series of three throws (one turn) that would reduce the score beyond zero do not count.

Each game is considered one leg. The match is won when two out of three games are won.

Cricket is a more intricate game requiring more throwing skill and strategy. It is played using primarilly the numbers 15 through 20 and the bull's eyes.

At the begining 15 through 20 and the bull's eye are eligible to be opened. To open a number, a player or team must score three of that number (any combination of singles doubles and triples). Once a team opens a number every subsequent score on that number increases the score for the team. The opposing team may not score on that number. But may attempt to close it by getting three scores on that number.For example side A scores once on 17. He gets no points but his score accumulates. Side B scores four times on 17 (a double and two singles).

The first three scores open the number for B. The fourth score gives B 17 points. Now A strikes 17 three times. The number is now closed for everyone. A gets no points, but does have the satisfaction of not allowing B to get any more points on 17.

In attempting to open and close the bull's eye, the inner is counted as a double and the outer is counted as a single bull.The game ends when all of the numbers are closed off. However, it may bedeclared over sooner if the player in the lead closes all posibility of the other side scoring.

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Basically, dart games are played between two players or two teams. The teams can be made up of two or more people each. Variations that allow for more than two sides have been devised, but these have not achieved any popularity.

Nine throws are generally allowed for each person as a warm-up before a game begins. Then, to determine which team or person is to take his turn first one dart is thrown by a person from each team. The team with the dart closest to the bull's eye takes the first turn.\Each player throws three darts in his turn. Then the darts are retrieved.

If a foot crosses over the line or a person happens to trip over the oche and releases his dart, the throw counts for no points and may not be re-thrown.

Darts must stay on the board for at least five seconds after a player's final throw to count. A throw does not score if it sticks into another dart or if it falls off the board.

Darts making it on the board score in the following manner:

In the wedge: the amount posted on the outer ring.
The double ring (the outer, narrow ring): twice the number hit.
The triple ring (the inner, narrow ring): three times the number hit.
Bulls eye (outer bull): twenty-five points.
Double bulls eye (inner bull): fifty points.

This is the basic method for play and scoring. A wide variety of games and variations are based upon it and will be discussed in the next section.

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Dart Boards vary in price from the cheap to the very expensive. A nice professional board can be acquired for under $50.00 along with two decent sets of darts. Cheap boards can also be fun, but you will find that the darts accompanying them suffer somewhat in balance and accuracy.

The board itself should be set up with the bulls eye exactly 5 feet 8 inches from the floor. It is wise to place some type of board behind (and around) the dart board, just to save your drywall or panelling in case of complete misses.

The board itself is 18 inches in diameter and divided into 20 sections.The section marked 20 is always centered at the top.The toe line (also known as the oche - named for a brewers case - Hockey -that was originally used to establish the distance between the board and the toe line) should be exactly 7 feet 9 1/4 inches from the face of the board. The line on the floor may also be a raised bar, 1 1/2 inches in height and two feet long. In most homes this will be an unwanted obstruction so a piece of masking tape is often used. A convenient way to mark the toe line, protect the floor, and preserve dart tips is to get a dart mat.

There should be at least two sets of 3 darts. Each player or team uses a set (a player may even own his own set). The darts themselves have a maximum length of 12 inches and a maximum weight of 50 grams.

Generally, a chalkboard, hung near the board is used for keeping score

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For obvious reasons, darts is not a game recommended for young children.Careless handling of a dart can result in serious injury. The dart tip is weighted and pointed and capable of penetrating wood. For this reason traditional darts is actually not allowed in drinking establishments in some states, provinces, and municipalities.

The procedure for throwing a dart is to not throw if any person happens to be forward of the oche or toe line. This not only prevents injury, but also excludes interference of the throw. Rough-housing with darts in hand can also be very dangerous no matter how good the thrower believes he or she may be.

A person injured by a dart should, of course, seek medical attention.Serious wounds, such as those of the eye or other face wounds may require a call for an ambulance.

If players keep these precautions in mind, many hours of fun can be had in the game of darts. There are available, boards made of plastic and rubber that accept a quality rubber tipped dart. Some of these boards are electronic and will even keep score for the players.

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One element of technique in a well thrown dart is grip - how you hold the dart with your fingers. Most players use a pencil grip, with the middle finger wedged between the front of the dart barrel and the base of the point. The dart is balanced on the thumb and held in place by the forefinger with this grip. This is a good way to grip a dart because it is easily repeatable, and anything that encourages automatic repetition will put you on the road to consistency.

That said, any grip that is easy to repeat and fosters a clean release of the dart as it leaves the fingers would work. A firm, but relaxed grip will also keep the dart parallel with the floor, and pointed at the dartboard. When the dart leaves your fingers, it has a much better chance of finding it's target if it's already pointed on a straight line to the dartboard. If the dart is pointed down, or to the side because of the grip, the drag of the flight may straighten it out before it hits the dartboard, but this adds a variable and it will cause the dart to yaw. To play winning darts, minimize the variables.

I use a modification of the pencil grip. Instead of anchoring the head of the barrel on my middle finger, I use the ring finger. This lets me rest my thumb on the taper where dart shaft and barrel meet, and makes for a consistently repeatable grip perfectly suited to the length of my dart and the size of my hand. I try to have the dart level during the release to minimized fishtailing of the dart in flight.

Fingers and hands obviously come in different sizes, and fortunately, so do darts. To play winning darts, match the dart to your hand, and master a grip that keeps the dart parallel to the ground and in line with the target.

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It's possible to play a good game of Cricket or '01 with house darts, but if winning consistently is the goal (and it should be!) you will want a set of darts that fits your hand and that fly well for you.

I have several sets of darts, but one set outplays all the rest by a considerable margin. I bought them second hand from a guy back in 1989, and since then I have tried to replace them at least six times. The knurling is worn and they do not grip as sure as a well knurled new barrel. The points were blunt and short from lots of play over concrete. Nevertheless, I have yet to find a set of darts taht throw well for me. It may be in my head, but why fool with something that works?

When I was not able to find anyone locally who could replace points, I couldn't bear to take the chance of shipping them off. So when the house boards in the league got to the point where my beat points were putting game winners on the floor, I put them aside and played with another set until the boards were replaced.

Then I got really hot one season, hittnig nearly everything I threw at. At the same time the bounce outs started to plague me even more. No amount of honing my dart points helped, so finally in desperation I broke out my Dremel - a high speed rotary cutting tool that has a zillion attachments. What I had to do to my dart point was remake the taper.

The flat side of a circular grinding wheel of the Dremel tool proved to be the answer. By holding the point to the flat of the wheel at a slight angle, I was able to grind the shoulder of the point into a gradual taper. The entire process on each of the three points took a total of 20 minutes (I was careful not to overheat the point and ruin the temper).

Like magic my darts suddenly stuck in the oldest boards with nary a bounce out. Then Murphy's Law came into play - the length of the sharper, reshaped point penetrated deeper into the dartboard and made it hard for me to see which side of the wire my dart was on from behind the line. Penetration was so good with the sharp point that the barrel was almost touching the board. This is undesirable for a couple of reasons. First, if the barrel is hitting the face of the dartboard it will do damage. Second, having the dart so close to the face of the board reduces the potential for grouping.

As luck would have it, one of the players in my dart league bought a tool that draws old points out of a barrel and replaces them with new. The job is accomplished in a few minutes and now my favorite darts are equipped with shiny new nickel plated tips. I immediately wanted to test them on the oldest board in the house. Imagine my dismay when the dart stuck in the board and then began to droop, and after 30 seconds fell out and onto the floor.

I guessed that the problem was the very slick nickel plating on the points. When I got home I rolled the new points over a a piece of fine sandpaper, and that solved the problem. Now they stick in the worst boards, most of the time.

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What are dart flight systems?  Dart flight systems are designed to not only keep the flights on your darts but also make the dart flights last longer and provide the following advatages:

Absolutely no chance of a "RobbinHood". Second dart can't stick in first dart flight and the deflection of second dart is minimized. 
The ultimate fully integrated shaft and flight protector that prolongs the life of your flights Holds flights wings at 90 degree angle to maintain perfect aerodynamics ensuring flight trajectory. Clever light weight constuction that protects and locks flights in place
There are many different dart flight systems, but we recommend the L-Style or the Intelite Dart Flight Systems

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The inner dart barrel and soft tip points are Hex-shaped for easy removal from the board.Shock-absorbing feature saves your points.Change from soft tip points to steel tip points in less than 10 seconds.

The diameter measurement is the fattest part of the barrel.This is the barrel length only and is rounded to the nearest 16th of an inch.
The barrel length and diameter are subject to change by the manufacturer without notice.

Darts with any type of coating are not guaranteed due to wear and tear. Some Manufactures do warranty their darts against fractures and breakage. However, coatings are NOT guaranteed (this includes titanium, grafix or any type of paint on the barrel).

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These darts are easily converted from soft tip to steel tip.
Making them compatible with both soft tip dartboards and steel tip bristle boards

The dart you order should match with the Barrel pictured. All other components of the dart (flights, shafts and tips) may vary in color and length upon receipt. Please call with any questions if you are concerned about the components of your dart.

The diameter measurement is the fattest part of the barrel.
This is the barrel length only and is rounded to the nearest 16th of an inch.
The barrel length and diameter are subject to change by the manufacturer without notice.

Darts with any type of coating are not guaranteed due to wear and tear. Some Manufactures do warranty their darts against fractures and breakage. However, coatings are NOT guaranteed (this includes titanium, grafix or any type of paint on the barrel).

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Darts are made of brass, nickel silver or tungsten. Brass is a soft/light material, which makes for easy machining, which keeps costs down.  Due to the lightness of this material, the darts can be bulky as the weight increases.

 Nickel Silver is slightly heavier than brass, but is still considered a soft/light material. Again, a nickel-silver dart will be bulky as the weight increases.  Nickel-silver darts do not tarnish as easily as brass darts and usually retain their luster longer.

Tungsten is a brittle and dense material.  Because of its brittleness another alloy is added to it to avoid breakage, the most common is nickel.  The higher the percentage of tungsten, the density increases in the barrel.  Thereby you can have a smaller barrel (than brass or nickel-silver) even with the same or greater weight.  The higher the percentage of tungsten, the cost of the dart usually goes up.  This is because Tungsten is a harder material to machine.  The hardness of a Tungsten barrel allows it to retain its grooves and knurl longer than a Nickel Silver or Brass dart.  Tungsten is a preferred choice for more serious darters because you can group your darts tighter with a smaller barrel.

The most common weight for soft tip darts is 18 grams, followed by 16 grams.  Soft tip darts are weighed complete (flight, shaft, barrel and point).

 Most soft tip darts have both 2ba tip and shaft thread size, this allows for easily reversing the barrel to find a better grip--based on individual preference.  Occasionally, you will find a ?” tip size, but this is not that common.  Keep this in mind when purchasing accessories for your soft tip darts or when purchasing multiple sets of darts that you may want to use the same tip size for all. 

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